This is a magnificent piece of writing - 11/10 - except for the no fotos suggestion. That is stuck in the past - you can’t complain about declining business AND ban modern FREE advertising at the same time ☮️❤️🍷
Ooh how your description of the Encarnación market brings back memories...!
It was one of the first things I noticed on arriving in Seville back in the day in 2005. There was a tile on the exterior wall that actually said MERCADO TEMPORAL 1973 (or something very similar). Long-lasting temporary indeed!
Yes, it wasn't the prettiest of installations, but the stalls were great and had queues of customers lining up. I wish they had retained something of that character when moving to the Setas instead of the anodyne look and feel they gave it. To me, it suddenly seemed artificially bright and shiny and no longer an invitation to explore... but perhaps my spectacles are too rose-tinted in that regard. And as time has progressed, this "barrio" has also lost many of its steadfast locals under the encroachment of mass tourism in the centre of Seville.
Perhaps the real reason that this particular mercado pulls at my heartstrings is because for several years during the works and move to the Setas, my elderly 80 year old neighbour - who'd lived ALL her life between the Puerta Osario and the Encarnación - and I were the fierce and staunch guardians/looker-afters of the market cats, come rain or shine, doing our utmost for them until the very end... the littlest of them all eventually living out a happy 17 years with me!!
Durante un tiempo, hace años, nos quedamos 3 o 4 veces al lado del mercado de Villegas. Pequeño, pero interesante. Y justo al lado había un bar, La Gloria, que además de buenas tostadas de desayuno solía tener tapas de vieja escuela de vez en cuando: albur en adobo, caracoles, ancas de rana... Hace mucho, así que no me atrevo a recomendarlo, pero tengo muy buen recuerdo.
Oohhh... debería ir. Hay varios otros mercados de barrio "de verdad" que quiero conocer. Para mi es divertido hacer una pequeña "day trip" para visitarlos.
Traditional markets: The place where I'm really (extremely!) happy!!! ❤️
Nonetheless quite sad seeing how they're going to a mere roof for (mediocre) bars. Each time that I see the words "Poner en valor", "nuevos tiempos", "responder a la demanda de (...)" I go almost in tears. It's the end of another market. History, culture, environment, roots... everything disappear under those words; under stupid capitalism.
Markets are for neighbours, communities, citizens... They're not there to satisfy us, travelers, doing some photos. Understanding them, supporting them buying something we can carry with us during our travel. Asking with real interest...
Much to my dismay too many markets closed, or transformed in a giant bunch of bars with a common roof, in the last few years 💔
Agree that it's a sad trend, turning our markets into tourist attractions. At least Barranco has never pretended to be anything other than a big gourmet food court (though it still calls itself "mercado"). Unfortunately it seems like the central markets here are going the way of Boqueria and San Miguel.
Well... the use of the name "mercado" is not an issue. Even traders use the word "market" for unreal values 😅 The problem is... well... you know what's the problem 😉
I love these markets. We have one here in Cadiz, I go there twice per week. The prices are more affordable than the supermarkets and the food is healthier too
This is a magnificent piece of writing - 11/10 - except for the no fotos suggestion. That is stuck in the past - you can’t complain about declining business AND ban modern FREE advertising at the same time ☮️❤️🍷
I didn’t say no photos, l said that it was polite and respectful to ask first 😘
What about the guy with the sign?
I absolutely bloody love markets. Beautiful heartfelt piece Shawn.
So many markets! I’ve found a few here in Malaga including a new to me Mercado de Salamanca with its beautiful 1920’s building and two good bars.
Salamanca is stunning. I also like El Carmen (my favourite Atarazanas bar started there, family still has a place I think).
Ooh how your description of the Encarnación market brings back memories...!
It was one of the first things I noticed on arriving in Seville back in the day in 2005. There was a tile on the exterior wall that actually said MERCADO TEMPORAL 1973 (or something very similar). Long-lasting temporary indeed!
Yes, it wasn't the prettiest of installations, but the stalls were great and had queues of customers lining up. I wish they had retained something of that character when moving to the Setas instead of the anodyne look and feel they gave it. To me, it suddenly seemed artificially bright and shiny and no longer an invitation to explore... but perhaps my spectacles are too rose-tinted in that regard. And as time has progressed, this "barrio" has also lost many of its steadfast locals under the encroachment of mass tourism in the centre of Seville.
Perhaps the real reason that this particular mercado pulls at my heartstrings is because for several years during the works and move to the Setas, my elderly 80 year old neighbour - who'd lived ALL her life between the Puerta Osario and the Encarnación - and I were the fierce and staunch guardians/looker-afters of the market cats, come rain or shine, doing our utmost for them until the very end... the littlest of them all eventually living out a happy 17 years with me!!
Yeah, it was shabby but somehow more charming than the new place. I heard that many stall holders weren't happy with it either after moving over.
Durante un tiempo, hace años, nos quedamos 3 o 4 veces al lado del mercado de Villegas. Pequeño, pero interesante. Y justo al lado había un bar, La Gloria, que además de buenas tostadas de desayuno solía tener tapas de vieja escuela de vez en cuando: albur en adobo, caracoles, ancas de rana... Hace mucho, así que no me atrevo a recomendarlo, pero tengo muy buen recuerdo.
Oohhh... debería ir. Hay varios otros mercados de barrio "de verdad" que quiero conocer. Para mi es divertido hacer una pequeña "day trip" para visitarlos.
Traditional markets: The place where I'm really (extremely!) happy!!! ❤️
Nonetheless quite sad seeing how they're going to a mere roof for (mediocre) bars. Each time that I see the words "Poner en valor", "nuevos tiempos", "responder a la demanda de (...)" I go almost in tears. It's the end of another market. History, culture, environment, roots... everything disappear under those words; under stupid capitalism.
Markets are for neighbours, communities, citizens... They're not there to satisfy us, travelers, doing some photos. Understanding them, supporting them buying something we can carry with us during our travel. Asking with real interest...
Much to my dismay too many markets closed, or transformed in a giant bunch of bars with a common roof, in the last few years 💔
Agree that it's a sad trend, turning our markets into tourist attractions. At least Barranco has never pretended to be anything other than a big gourmet food court (though it still calls itself "mercado"). Unfortunately it seems like the central markets here are going the way of Boqueria and San Miguel.
Well... the use of the name "mercado" is not an issue. Even traders use the word "market" for unreal values 😅 The problem is... well... you know what's the problem 😉
I love these markets. We have one here in Cadiz, I go there twice per week. The prices are more affordable than the supermarkets and the food is healthier too