The Donald
no, not that one
I’ve known Mariano García Romero so long I can’t even remember when we first met, but I do know that it was at his landmark Cafetería Donald (which as of a few years ago is also happily just five minutes from my house).
Mariano is the epitome of a traditional restaurateur, sadly a dying breed, and the walls of his establishment are festooned with various awards and accolades that he has garnered over the years. Last autumn he received not one but two prestigious awards: the Premio Tabernero Mayor 2025 (Master Tavern Keeper) at San Sebastián Gastronomika and another at the XIV Gala Premios Tradiciones Sevillanas, recognising his contribution to local culture and traditions.
This past week Mariano received yet another accolade - the 2026 Cucharón de Plata (Silver Ladle) - awarded by the Chamber of Commerce, in collaboration with Sevilla Hotel & Restaurant Association, for his “exemplary career and a lifetime dedicated to the hospitality industry”. Having spent more than 50 years at the Donald, beginning when he was just 18 years old, I can’t think of anyone who deserves it more. In spite of the various changes and challenges over the years Mariano’s commitment to service and quality remains unwavering. And typically, upon receiving his award, he dedicated it to his family, co-workers and customers in a moving acceptance speech.
Founded in 1973 by Manolo Ávila, the curiously named Cafetería Donald was originally even more curiously named the Pato Donald (Donald Duck). Why? Well at that time Disney was having a moment in Spain and Ávila liked the image as a theme for his new restaurant, which included having Donald Duck’s image on the windows, the menu, the plates and glassware, even emblazoned on the ties of his staff. About five months into this new venture he received a cease and desist order from Disney Corp threatening legal action. In the end it was cheaper to remove all duck imagery from the premises but he stuck with the name Donald as it was already becoming a recognised “brand” in the city.
In 1975 Ávila hired Mariano García (head waiter), Juan Pazos (chef), and Manuel Japón (bartender), and trained them all in his traditional Sevillian style. Thus began Mariano’s journey with Cafetería Donald, which soon became a favourite of important bullfighting impresarios, the most acclaimed bullfighters, radio personalities, footballers, flamenco singers, artists and politicians. When Ávila retired in 1987 the three friends took over running the restaurant together until 2016, when Mariano assumed sole ownership.
When the bar next door became available during Covid lockdown, Mariano didn’t hesitate. He immediately saw how well this location would work in tandem as a sister bar, especially with the ample sidewalk terrace and large windows that open onto the street. But rather than just open “Donald 2” he gave his new bar, Bodega La Hermandad, a unique personality, creating a space with a special “ambiente cofrade”, something close to his heart. Little by little the walls were filled with Semana Santa memorabilia, much of it donated to the bar by friends and various hermandades (brotherhoods) in the city.
For the past year Mariano has been joined by his daughter Conchi, who intends to follow in her father’s footsteps. Although still learning the ropes, Conchi already possesses the same charisma and, like her father, is also an innate “people person”, which is something they both feel cannot be taught. While Mariano has no plans to retire any time soon he is now able to relax a bit with his daily duties with Conchi in charge, though he is still always ready to fill in either behind the bar or in the kitchen if need be.
Often outspoken and occasionally controversial, Mariano admits to the important role that tourism plays in the local hospitality sector, but says his regular customers come first. He has managed to maintain his restaurant’s classic integrity, not bowing to trends, while treating everyone from celebrity to tourist to local neighbour as equally welcome.
Likewise he has not tampered with the original traditional recipes first created by Juan Pazos and Manuel Japón and an extensive renovation in 2016, making several improvements, did not alter the overall look, maintaining its iconic “70s diner” façade.
Mariano is a regular figure at the local markets, with daily early morning visits to Triana, Encarnación or Las Palmeritas, where he has long-established friendships with the various stallholders and providers. He takes pride in offering the best quality products and produce he can find and uses these market visits to hand pick items for daily specials and the seafood display case.
The restaurant has garnered much critical and popular acclaim. Aside from the much awarded ensaladilla rusa you will find other classic dishes such as kidneys in sherry, daily stews, a whole braised lamb shoulder, rolled roasted pork loin “al jerez”, fabulous fried fish and a stunning array of shellfish and seafood.
The all-day kitchen serves up tapas (at the bar), with half and full raciones (at the tables) from midday to closing time and the wine list includes a good selection of sherries plus national wines from several different regions. Expect a warm welcome and friendly “Donald-style” service, a traditional well worth preserving.
Thanks for reading and supporting Bitesize Sevilla! This article is public so please feel free to share.