Open Sunday & Monday in Sevilla

a guide to (good) bars and restaurants open Sunday & Monday

OPEN SUNDAY & MONDAY IN SEVILLA
a guide to (good) bars and restaurants open Sunday & Monday

Traditionally Sunday evenings and Mondays have been when family-run bars and restaurants would close for some much-deserved time off. You just knew that your choices were limited on these days. Of course there were exceptions, places that had the resources (and desire) to hire enough staff to cover a seven-day schedule, such as El Cairo and Casa Robles. But in general this was the accepted norm and we made our social plans accordingly.

Pity the hapless traveller landing in town for a quick two-day stopover only to find all the “hot spots” they had hoped to visit are closed. Another thing that also still flummoxes people arriving here from other countries is our eating schedule. Personally I don't get this because, hey guys we have the internet now! This makes it super easy to look a few things up about the place or places you're about to visit. Just like you're doing right now.

I mean, yes, typically bars and restaurants are open between 1.00 – 4.00 pm for lunch and 8.00 – 11.00 pm for dinner. Because that's the way we eat here. You'd never see a local out for a meal at 6.00 pm (that's merienda time!). And while there have always been a few places catering to tourists, serving burgers and pizzas and pre-made paellas at all hours, it was/is challenging for visitors to “eat like a local” without, you know, actually attempting to do that.

These past few years have seen a lot of changes in that department. Newly pedestrianised Mateos Gago reopened after the Covid lockdown period looking like a tapas-bar themed Hollywood movie set. Other traditional bars began adapting their menus and opening times to accommodate the growing influx of tourists. And a new breed of tapas bar emerged, purpose designed and built to appeal to locals and visitors alike. So people landing in Sevilla could suddenly find food available all day every day, often at very authentic-looking tapas bars.

I'm actually of two minds about this because, in the case of existing bars attempting to be everything to everyone, much has been lost in terms of integrity and character, and the food offerings tend to be watered down versions of their original menus. Not sure if it's been worth it to them in the end, following market trends rather than their hearts. Of course meeting market demand has always been what businesses do but it used to be that the market here for bars and restaurants was... mostly us. I guess not any more. After a brief post-lockdown second honeymoon when local hospitality depended on us to get back on their feet it was soon back to chasing the tourist dollar.

Having said that, some of the old places have managed to hold onto their unique sevillano essence, bending to the new demands rather than capitulating. And the new ones? Frankly, some of them are pretty damn good. The best are locally-owned with the owners on site, or at least seen now and again. Not surprisingly these are mostly owned and run by GenXers, young enough to still have the energy to be everywhere all day long, seven days a week.

all day snackage

So while Sundays and Mondays here are still limited - most of those “hot spots” will still be closed - there are lot more good options than previously, which I know even people working in hospitality also appreciate as there are now more good places for them to go on their days off too. This isn’t an exhaustive list, just enough to give you plenty of choice during your visit. Basically these are some of the places I like going.

Barrio Santa Cruz

Bar Las Teresas
Santa Teresa 2
12.00 pm – 11.30 pm
Classic tapas. My favourite spot is sitting at the bar in front of the jamón cutting station.

Casa Román
Plaza Venerables 1
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.00 – 11.30 pm
Comfort food Ibérico-style. Unadulterated traditional menu.

La Azotea Vinos & Tapas
Mateos Gago 8
9.00 am – 11.30 pm
A modern take on traditional tapas with great wines to match.

Vineria San Telmo
Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4
9.00 am – 11.30 pm
Fabulous fusiony tapas and possibly the best desserts in the city.

Plaza Alfalfa

Cervecería Salmedina
Plaza Guardamino 1
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.00 – 11.30 pm
Bringing the Cádiz coast to Sevilla with exceptional fish and seafood from their own fish market in Rota.

Catalina La Barra
Plaza Alfalfa 9
12.30 pm - midnight
Possibly the longest tapas display case in town, great food and service in this modern casual bar.

Tradevo Centro
Cuesta del Rosario 15
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.30 – 11.30 pm
Tradition and evolution, attention to detail. I love the prawn-filled avocado “canneloni”.

El Arenal / Museo

La Brunilda
Galera 5
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.30 – 11.30 pm
Have the Crackburger! Actually, have anything. I've never had a less than delicious everything here.

El Cairo
Reyes Católicos 13
12.00 pm - midnight
Sit at the bar for exquisite elegant tapas, great service, wonderful wines.

Cafetería Donald
Canalejas 3
12.30 – midnight
My local and I love it. Tapas at the bar, raciones on the terrace.

Encarnación

Taberna Zurbarán
Plaza Zurbarán 2
12.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.00 – 11.30 pm
Elevated traditional tapas, be sure to catch the freshly made tortilla (one made per shift)

La Cayetana
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 9
1.00 – 4.00 pm / 7.30 – 11.30 pm
Casual bistro andalúz

Desacato
Amor de Dios 7
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.00 - midnight
Andalusian-inspired dishes and Basque influences, combining the traditional with the avante-guarde.

La Barra de Cañabota
Orfila 5
1.00 – 5.00 pm / 7.30 – 11.30 pm
Michelin-quality fish and seafood in a casual yet elegant ambiance. Great wine list.

San Lorenzo / Alameda

La Azotea – La Tienda
Conde de Barajas 13
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8. 30 – 11.30 pm
One of the pioneers of innovative tapas, still going strong.

Marabunda
Jesús del Gran Poder 31
1.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.30 – 11.30 pm
Tapas with an asiany-fusiony twist.

El Disparate
Alameda 31
1.30 – 4.00 / 8.00 – 11.30 pm
Have the huevos estrellados!

Triana

Bar Golondrinas
Antillano Campos 26 / Pagés del Corro 76
12.30 – 4.30 pm / 8.00 – 11.30 pm
Home of the famous punta de solomillo and the best damn radishes in town.

Bar Santa Ana
Pureza 82
9.00 am - midnight
A barrio classic reinvented but staying true to its roots.

La Primera del Puente
Bétis 69
12.30 – 4. 30 pm / 8.30 – 11.30 pm
My favourite spot in Triana for fried fish.

Meals in Sevilla

Part of the reason our eating times are different from other countries is because of our lifestyle. Also, the weather. In general lunch is the main meal of the day and, if done properly, can linger on during a blessed sobremesa until dusk. Sobremesa refers to the time spent still at the table after the meal is finished, chatting, having a coffee or another glass of wine, and it's considered just as important as the meal itself. This is why you will never see a waiter bring you the check unasked for, it's considered the height of disrespect. There is even a Change.org petition circulating to have the sobremesa recognised by UNESCO as a Spanish Intangible Heritage.

So this also answers how we can eat so late at night. At home dinner is usually something light like an omelette, bowl of soup or a salad. Or a few tapas if we go out. Tucking into a late night three course meal is rare, saved for special occasions.

And lunches start late because, well, there are two breakfasts. The first early breakfast is usually just a quick coffee and a bite at home before heading out to work. This is followed around 10.00 o'clock by a proper tostada breakfast. I learned early on to never go to the bank or post office between 10 and 11. It’s actually a lovely way to break up the morning.

Oh, and there's also merienda, which is basically coffee and cake time and happens late afternoon – early evening.

7.00 – 8.00 am Early breakfast

10.00 – 11.00 am Second breakfast

2.00 – 4.00 pm Lunch

5.00 – 7.00 pm Merienda

9.00 – 11.00 pm. Dinner

This is very Sevilla oriented because, well, we're not Madrid. Or Bilbao or Valencia. So keep in mind that eating times and customs can vary in different regions. And while it’s understandably difficult to upend one’s lifelong eating habits for a brief holiday, for people who are food-focused when they travel I think it’s worth making the effort to actually eat like a local while here. So instead of starving yourself all afternoon waiting for your 9.00 pm dinner booking, try embracing lunch culture and eating lighter in the evening. And don’t be afraid to try unfamiliar dishes. In most cases you can order a small tapas size and so, if you don’t like it, no pasa nada. At least you tried.